What we did: Stayed a few days in Istanbul, then rented a car for 2 weeks. We meandered down the west and south coast enjoying beautiful beaches, then went inland to Pamukkale and on to unusual Cappadocia in the middle of Turkey. We took an overnight train from Ankara back to Istanbul, where we spent a few more days.
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the Blue Mosque in Istanbul
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Overall: We left Turkey feeling like the whole country is magic! It’s a unique mix of exotic history and traditions, unusual landscapes and modern convenience. It’s easy to understand why people visit here again and again or just end up staying forever. We recommend it for all types of travelers.
Essentials: A headscarf or other type of cover-up for visiting mosques and other sites, as well as long pants or skirts. Also bring the will to bargain – you’ll need it!
Planning: We used an excellent website called turkeytravelplanner.com – it’s packed with excellent information, including suggested itineraries which really helped us out. The author, Tom Brosnahan, has written several popular guidebooks on Turkey.
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woman in Sirince
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Food: We continued our love affair with lamb that started in New Zealand. Grace cannot get enough of the lamb kebaps – they’re everywhere and cheap. Strangely, seafood is very expensive even though a lot of Turkey is on a coast.
People: The Turkish are very friendly – some of the most friendly and outgoing people we’ve met on our trip. We had so many amazing experiences meeting people in small towns on our drives even despite the language barrier. The one exception to this is Sultanahmet, the tourist center of Istanbul – people here are a bit more aggressive, and of course everybody wants to sell you a carpet.
Standard of Living: varies throughout the country
Daily Budget: $75-$100 USD/day, depending on accommodations (does not include car).
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Obelisk in the Hippodrome
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Exchange Rate: $1 USD = 1.35 YTL. Note that both new and old currency are in use and while this can be a bit confusing, it’s cool to throw 1,000,000 notes around like candy (they’re worth about 75 cents). Susan was heard to say, “This is 250 Bin Lira, which is the same as 25 Yeni Kurus.” Huh?
Weather: At this time of year it’s perfect – sunny, clear and mild all day. We’re sure that this affected our impression of the country since everything is constantly cast in a glowing, golden sunlight.
Getting Around: It’s easy to get around to most of the major sites in the country by bus, and the buses are very nice – cushy seats with a beverage and snack service on long rides. For two of our three weeks, however, we rented a car, and we’re glad we did. It was expensive (more so because of a unexpected run in -, but it allowed us to keep our own schedule and stop wherever we wanted (small villages, less-visited sites). It was especially useful in Cappadocia.
| Cultural Observations: | |
| - Praying up to 5 times a day certainly changes the general schedule of things. | |
| - Strangely, it is considered more polite to say you’re going to meet someone at a certain time and simply not show up than to tell them you can’t meet them in the first place. | |
| - See turkey: raising eyebrows for a funny story about communication barriers. | |
Major Difficulties: There’s a significant language barrier outside the big cities, although everyone is very friendly. It’s certainly worth learning a few phrases in basic Turkish to help you get along.
| Specific places we visited/things we did: | |||||||
| Istanbul: | |||||||
| - Blue Mosque: Spectacular looking from any direction on the outside. Next to a nice park where you can sit, rest, and take in the glorious view. The inside is also impressive although it is closed several times a day for prayers. -
Aya Sofya: In 537 A.D., when Emperor
Suleymaniye Camii: A mosque |
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| >> Recommended accomodation: Apricot Hotel << website; email; phone: +90 212-638-1658; owner: Hakan; address: Akbiyik Caddesi No. 75, Sultanahmet-Eminonu, Istanbul; This place is reasonably priced, staffed with friendly folks, and in a great location in Sultanahmet. |
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Recommended activity: |
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| Selcuk/Ephesus:: | |||||||
- Ephesus Ruins: Large-scale |
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| >> Recommended accomodation: Jimmy’s Place (aka Artemis Guest House)<< website; email; phone: +90 232-892-1982; manager: Bron; address: Ataturk Mah., 1016 Sok., No. 19, Selcuk; In a great location right by the bus station (Otogar) and in town. This place can’t be beat for the price and has dorm style and private rooms. Bron is super knowledgeable and helpful in planning travels around the area. They also have a huge library of resources that Bron keeps up to date, as well as a travel agent on site. |
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| Aphrodisius: We debated whether or not to make the extra drive here, but we’re glad we did. These partially restored ruins are much less touristed than Ephesus and allow you to more easily imagine the magnitude of the original buildings and site without a bunch of other people around. Allow a little over 2 hours to make the loop around the site, or 3 if you want to perform air guitar in the massive theater solo, while your wife or significant other laughs at you and throws imaginary jeweled bras at you. | |||||||
| Pamukkale/Hieropolis: | |||||||
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| >> Recommended accomodation: Allgau Hotel << website; email; phone: +90 258-272-2767; address: Hasan Tahsin Caddesi No. 19, Pamukkale; They have an older building and a bright, brand-new building with new beds and balconies. A charming family owns and runs this pension and also makes delicious home-cooked meals. They have rooms to fit many budgets and a pool filled with calcium-enriched water from the travertines. |
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| Oludeniz: A sadly touristy resort BUT it has a beautiful lagoon to swim in with a lovely sand beach. We didn’t stay, but if you can get over the overpriced feeling of the place (and the hords of English and Germans), it might be nice. | |||||||
| Cirali: A sleepy and much less-touristed beach town about 6 kilometers away from overly-backpacker crowded Olimpus. The waters are 3 shades of brilliant blue and calm. | |||||||
| >> Recommended accomodation: Yildez Pension << website; email; phone: +90 242-825-7160; owner: Ali; directions: find the road to the beach and when you get to the beach, stay to the left and drive about another 700 meters; A quaint family-owned and run pension with cabin-style bungalows and clean regular rooms. They serve home-cooked Turkish food for dinner and traditional Turkish breakfast. No pool, but lots of places to hang out under trees on site and they’re a short walk away from an even more secluded beach off the main strip. |
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| Konya: A city famous for whirling dervishes. This is a typical big city and if we were to go back to Turkey we would probably skip it, though it is on the drive into Cappadocia from the coast, so if you’re making that drive it’s a good place to stop. We took in a whirling dervish show here (at the Cultural Center) but were disappointed. Comparing notes with people we met, it sounds like the show in Istanbul was better. Also of note is the Mevlana Museum and Mosque – definitely worth a look. | |||||||
| Yenice: A small village between Konya and Cappadocia -the full story. | |||||||
| Cappadocia: This place was transported in from another planet. It’s literally fantastic with fairy chimneys and houses carved in volcanic rock. We stayed outside Urgup in a tiny village called Ayvali at Gamirasu Cave Hotel. The villagers still live in the old style and we awoke most mornings to the smell of bread baking in the cave ovens, ready to be brought to sale in town. | |||||||
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Goreme Open Air Museum: |
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Recommended |
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| Overnight train from Ankara to Istanbul: This was comfortable and convenient, but the train does shake all night, so if you’re a light sleeper, this might not be the ride for you. Otherwise, it’s a great way to get a good price on a night’s accommodation and transportation all in one. | |||||||









