Are you in a position to see the fort there? We were at the Malvan beach, when we saw a two-mile-long wall of a fort standing tall against the horizon. There are close to 15 families staying there even now.
My aunt lives there we had befriended a self-styled guide who selected to give us an armchair history of Sindhudurg, the fort that lent its name to the district. Sindhu means sea and Durg is, naturally, fort; therefore the name, he announced.
Built by Maratha emperor Shivaji Maharaj in the 17th Century across 44 acres of land, this sea fort found in Kurute Island is home to several shrines, including one devoted to the infantryman king built by his boy Rajaram. A footprint and a palm relic of the Maharaja are among the traveller best attractions here.
The monsoon had just set in and not one of the boatmen was prepared to take us ashore to the fort, but they strived with each other to tell us stories. When Shivaji was ruling over Konkan, he was keeping a lookout for a sea fort that would protect him from the assault of the Siddhis of Murud Janjeera.
The Janjeera fort had been undefeatable and Shivaji selected the rocky island of Kurute, and together with his chief, Hiroji Indulkar, built the fort at Sindhudurg. Built using molten lead mixed with mortar, it had 32 towers and was meant to be their naval HQ. The fort stayed with the Marathas before it being taken over by the East India Company.
I was more inquisitive about the families living in the deserted fort today. My aunt stocks lots of food until the monsoon gets over. It is very hard to keep sailing in the upset waters. The guide told us that just about all the families were those of mavlas or infantrymen who fought in the Maratha armed forces. For generations, their descendants lived here; the younger generation has moved to the shore in pursuit of work.
Tourism seems to be their main livelihood, besides fishing. Almost all of the homes are normal too. We cannot even sell them, and there are no facilities here; so, it’s like we are all cut off from the world, and continue to live in the amazing days of the Maratha Empire.
The tides recede and a private boatman offered to take us ashore. Madam, there are pools there which will never become dry. I will show you hid passages. Were you aware there had been a coconut tree with a branch?
As we start negotiating the rate, I am wondering about the families stuck in a time warp, cut off from civilization. We start sailing to hear their stories. Disclosed in Inside Story, Metro and supplement of The Hindu on September 21, 2009.
